Pilgrim's guide

Lisieux - pilgrim's guide

Photos: Nono vlf · CC BY-SA 4.0

Lisieux in Normandy is the town of St Thérèse of the Child Jesus, one of the best-loved saints of the Church. This guide is for pilgrims who want to follow in her footsteps: from her family home, through the Carmel, to the great basilica on the hill.

Machine-translated guide.

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Why go

St Thérèse showed a path to holiness open to everyone: the little way of trust, everyday small things and love without grand gestures. In Lisieux this path becomes very tangible, in an ordinary middle-class house, in the modest chapel of the Carmel and in the places she knew from childhood.

It is also a shrine to a whole family. The parents of Thérèse, Saints Louis and Zélie Martin, rest in the crypt of the basilica. After Lourdes, the basilica in Lisieux is the second largest pilgrimage site in France, and Pope John Paul II prayed here in 1980.

A short history

Thérèse Martin was born on 2 January 1873 in Alençon. After her mother's death in 1877 the family moved to Lisieux, to the house called Les Buissonnets. On 9 April 1888, at the age of 15, Thérèse entered the Carmel. She died of tuberculosis on 30 September 1897, aged 24. Her memoirs, published as The Story of a Soul, quickly spread around the world.

Pius XI beatified her in 1923 and canonised her on 17 May 1925. He also wished for a great shrine to be built in Lisieux. The foundation stone of the basilica was laid on 30 September 1929, in 1937 it was blessed by Cardinal Pacelli, the future Pius XII, and it was consecrated on 11 July 1954. In 1997 John Paul II proclaimed Thérèse a Doctor of the Church.

Getting there

For most international visitors the easiest route is to fly to Paris and continue to Lisieux by train. Many coach pilgrimages combine Lisieux with Paris, Mont-Saint-Michel and Lourdes.

by train: direct regional trains run from Paris Saint-Lazare station to Lisieux; the journey usually takes about two hours, check the timetable with SNCF
from the station: you can walk to the shrines; the Carmel and the pilgrim houses are a few to fifteen minutes from the station
by car and coach: the shrine's pilgrim houses have their own car parks, including for coaches
by bus: regional Nomad lines link Lisieux with other towns in Normandy

When to go

The shrine welcomes pilgrims all year round, and in summer it prepares a special programme for visitors. The most important time is the autumn celebrations in honour of the saint.

late September and early October - the Feasts of St Thérèse (Fêtes de sainte Thérèse) with a procession of the relics, a Mass with a shower of rose petals and a procession to the cathedral
1 October - liturgical memorial of St Thérèse
July and August - the shrine's summer programme
throughout the year - themed weekends and retreats, dates on the shrine's website

What to see and experience

Les Buissonnets - the family home where Thérèse lived for 11 years; the dining room, the fireplace linked to the Christmas grace of 1886, and the room where in 1883 she was healed by the smile of Our Lady
the garden of Les Buissonnets, where at Pentecost 1887 she asked her father for permission to enter the Carmel
the Carmel chapel with the reliquary and tomb of Thérèse
the Mémorial by the Carmel - an exhibition about the saint's life and daily life in the convent
the Basilica of St Thérèse on the hill, with its mosaics and the crypt where Louis and Zélie Martin rest
St Peter's Cathedral, the destination of the relic procession during the Feasts of St Thérèse

Practical information

Mass times and opening hours of the individual sites: check the shrine's website
the enclosure of the Carmel is not open to visitors, but a virtual tour is available online
the shrine offers guided tours in several languages; groups should book in advance
the sites are in different parts of town, so allow a full day for all of them
the pilgrim houses have rooms adapted for people with reduced mobility
Les Buissonnets is supported by visitors' donations

Accommodation and food

The shrine runs two pilgrim houses of its own. The Ermitage Sainte-Thérèse, right next to the Carmel, welcomes individuals, families and groups. The Foyer Louis et Zélie Martin serves mainly groups and retreats. Both are a short walk from the station.

The town also has a choice of hotels and restaurants. Do try Norman cuisine, and during the Feasts of St Thérèse book accommodation well in advance.

Tips from pilgrims

before you come, read at least part of The Story of a Soul; the places then take on a completely different meaning
start at Les Buissonnets, then the Carmel, and finish at the basilica, following the order of Thérèse's life
the walk up to the basilica on the hill is a bit of a climb; older people may prefer to go by car or bus
the Carmel chapel is kept in silence and is the best place for longer prayer
if you have time, add a day for Alençon, the town where Thérèse was born
the weather in Normandy is changeable, so an umbrella is useful even in summer

On foot in the footsteps of Thérèse

Lisieux is best discovered on foot. The family home, the Carmel, the cathedral and the basilica form a natural route through the town that can be walked in a day, with pauses for prayer. The shrine also offers guided weekends in the footsteps of the saint, from her childhood to the Carmel.

Frequently asked questions

Where are the relics of St Thérèse of Lisieux?

The tomb and reliquary of St Thérèse are in the Carmel chapel in Lisieux. The relics of her parents, Saints Louis and Zélie Martin, rest in the crypt of the basilica.

How do I get from Paris to Lisieux?

By train from Paris Saint-Lazare station. The direct service usually takes about two hours. From the station you can walk to the shrines.

Can I visit the Carmel where Thérèse lived?

The chapel with the reliquary, the Mémorial and the outdoor areas are open to visitors. The enclosure remains the home of a living community, but the shrine offers a virtual tour of it.

When are the Feasts of St Thérèse in Lisieux?

In late September and early October, around the saint's memorial on 1 October. The shrine publishes the exact programme for each year.

Is there a pilgrim house in Lisieux?

Yes. The shrine runs the Ermitage Sainte-Thérèse next to the Carmel and the Foyer Louis et Zélie Martin, intended mainly for groups.

How much time do I need for Lisieux?

One full day is enough for all the main sites. Those who want to pray at a calmer pace or take part in a retreat stay for two or three days.