Pilgrim's guide
Altötting - pilgrim's guide
Photos: Allie_Caulfield from Germany · CC BY 2.0
Altötting in Upper Bavaria is called the heart of Bavaria, and for more than five centuries its Chapel of Grace with the Black Madonna has drawn pilgrims from all over Europe. This guide is for anyone who wants to come here independently or with a group, often on the way to Mariazell, Wies or further west.
Machine-translated guide.
Why go
Altötting is twinned with Częstochowa and has something of a great Marian shrine about it: the Black Madonna, crowds at prayer, votive offerings and the quiet of a chapel where prayer continues from morning to evening. Everything is centred on a single square, so even a short stay lets you experience the place calmly.
It is also the town of a saintly porter, Brother Conrad of Parzham, and a place close to the heart of Benedict XVI, who was born in nearby Marktl. For families, older people and parish groups it is a convenient shrine: compact, well organised and easy to combine with other places in Bavaria and Austria.
A short history
The octagonal Chapel of Grace is one of the oldest Marian churches in Germany; tradition dates it to around the year 700. The venerated statue of Our Lady with the Child is 66 cm tall, was carved around 1330 in the Upper Rhine region and, according to tradition, came here through the Cistercian abbey of Raitenhaslach. The wood has darkened with age and candle smoke, hence the name Black Madonna.
Pilgrimages grew at the end of the 15th century, after the account of a boy restored to life before the statue in 1489. The chapel holds urns containing the hearts of Bavarian dukes and kings, including King Ludwig II. Altötting was visited by Popes Pius VI in 1782, John Paul II on 19 November 1980 and Benedict XVI on 11 September 2006. Brother Conrad, for over 40 years the porter of the Capuchin friary, died here in 1894, and Pius XI declared him a saint in 1934.
Getting there
Altötting lies between Munich, Passau and Salzburg. Most visitors arrive by car or coach, or fly into Munich or Salzburg and continue by train.
- by train: all connections, from Munich and from Salzburg, require a change at Mühldorf am Inn; the station is not far from the centre
- by air: the nearest airports are Munich (approx. 80 km) and Salzburg (approx. 60 km)
- by car: from Munich on the A94 motorway, from the Salzburg side on the B20
- by coach: many pilgrimage tours combine Altötting with Mariazell, Wies or Salzburg; the town's tourist information indicates coach parking
When to come
The chapel is open all year round. The main pilgrimage season runs from May to October, when most groups arrive and candlelight processions are held on Saturdays. In winter and on weekdays it is noticeably quieter.
- May - the month of Mary, start of the season
- Pentecost - arrival of many pilgrim groups, a lot of them on foot
- Corpus Christi - procession on the Kapellplatz
- vigil of the Assumption, 14 August - evening candlelight procession
- current calendar of services: town and shrine website
What to see and experience
- the Chapel of Grace with the Black Madonna and the urns containing the hearts of Bavaria's rulers
- more than 2,000 votive tablets in the arcade around the chapel
- the Basilica of St Anne, the town's largest church, built at the beginning of the 20th century
- the Brother Conrad Church (Bruder-Konrad-Kirche), linked to his life and veneration
- the late Gothic collegiate church of Sts Philip and James
- the treasury with the Golden Horse, a gift of Queen Isabeau of Bavaria
- the Jerusalem Panorama, a vast painting of the Crucifixion
- an adoration chapel for silent prayer and regular confession times
- blessing of devotional items at the chapel
Practical information
- times of Masses, confessions and blessings: check the pilgrimage section of the town website
- at weekends and on feast days pilgrim helpers on the square assist with practical matters
- the tourist information and pilgrimage office are on the Kapellplatz
- groups register their visit through the pilgrimage form on the town website
- the town website has an English version
- the Kapellplatz is flat and accessible, and most sights are a few minutes' walk apart
Accommodation and food
Altötting has many hotels, guesthouses and pilgrim houses, some run by church communities. In season, especially in May and August, it is worth booking early. Around the square it is easy to find Bavarian food and a café.
Tips from pilgrims
- the chapel is often crowded, so it tends to be calmest early in the morning or late in the evening
- walk around the chapel and read the votive tablets - it is one of the most moving parts of a visit
- for many the Saturday candlelight procession is the most powerful experience, so arrive early
- it is good to combine the visit with nearby Marktl, the birthplace of Benedict XVI
- one day is enough, but staying overnight lets you join morning and evening prayer
- on days of large pilgrimages the centre is crowded, so coach drivers should check parking in advance
On foot and on the trail
Altötting is the destination of traditional walking pilgrimages from Bavaria and Austria, especially around Pentecost. Groups usually walk for several days and enter the square solemnly, with a cross and singing. If you would like to join such a group, look for information in the parishes of the region or at the town's pilgrimage office.
Frequently asked questions
Why is Our Lady of Altötting black?
The wooden statue from around 1330 has naturally darkened with age, and over the centuries candle smoke has blackened it further. That is why it is venerated as the Black Madonna.
How do I get to Altötting from Munich?
By train with a change at Mühldorf am Inn, or by car on the A94 motorway. Munich airport is about 80 km from the town.
Whose hearts are kept in the Chapel of Grace?
The chapel holds urns with the hearts of Bavarian dukes, bishops and kings, among them King Ludwig II.
What links Altötting with Benedict XVI?
Joseph Ratzinger was born in nearby Marktl and spent his childhood in this area. As pope he came here on 11 September 2006; he is an honorary citizen of the town, and in 2008 he gave the shrine a Golden Rose.
When is the best time for a pilgrimage to Altötting?
From May to October, the season of candlelight processions and large pilgrimages. Those looking for quiet can come on a weekday or out of season.
